The Abandoned Mandirs Of Rawalpindi: Shiraz Hassan
The partition of India was based on the premise that a Bengali Muslim would identify with sorrows and issues of a Punjabi Muslim more than a Bengali Hindu. Of course, that was a vicious and diabolic notion. Culture and heritage is above religion. Shiraz Hassan, a Pakistan-based journalist, visits dilapidated temples and gurudwaras of Rawalpindi; the city still sings of her secular past.
Guest post by SHIRAZ HASSAN
The entry to a temple in Gunjmandi. All photos by Shiraz Hasan
In the early 19th century, the British made Rawalpindi the central seat of military power as they aimed towards Afghanistan. This was in line with their strategic approach towards the Russian Empire in order to enjoy and retain complete control over central Asia. Known as the Great Game, the conflict continues today in another form.
A detail in a temple in Ganjmandi
After the Partition in 1947, Rawalpindi continued to be the General Headquarters of the Army. But Pindi has a lot more to tell than just martial tales. The city has been known for its heritage and culture. Its multi-religious character changed when almost all of its Hindu and Sikh inhabitants left for India. Sixty five years after the Partition, I went looking for their temples and Gurudwaras.
Ambardaran mandir, Bohar Bazaar
Walking around the old city, in areas like Krishanpura, Akaal Garh, Mohanpura, Amarpura, Kartarpura, Bagh Sardaraan, Angatpura, you can see Pindi’s heritage. There are about ten temples and Gurudwaras which are no longer functional and are in a very bad shape. One temple located at Kohati Bazaar is in good condition. Its premises are used as a government school for disabled children. Another beautiful Gurdwara known as Bagh Sardaraan is used by the Punjab Police as their main office.
A temple in Chungi no. 4
The temple located at Govt. Asghar Mall College is used as a scrapyard. A Shiva temple at Gunjmandi now houses storerooms or shops. There are some more abandoned temples scattered around College Road, Bohar Bazaar, Purana Qilla, Bagh Sardaraan and then some outskirts of Rawalpindi which are on the verge of collapse.
In the old area of Lunda Bazaar, there used to be three temples, a Gurdwara, a Khalsa School and many Havelis of Hindus and Sikhs. Of the three temples, two have survived. The third, of goddess Kali in the main bazaar, no longer exists. It has been converted into living quarters and extensions have been made, thus changing the original structure entirely. In Lunda bazaar there is a tall structure of a temple known as Mohan Mandir. This temple is believed to have been built by two Hindu Hakims in 1930, Hakim Asa Anand and Hakim Moti Ram.
Mohan mandir at Lunda Bazaar
It is sad that even though there are so many abandoned temples in Rawalpindi and Islamabad, there is not a single place for the Hindus living in the twin cities to celebrate their festivals like Diwali, Shivratri or Holi. There are more than 25,000 Hindus living in Rawalpindi and Islamabad. Some of them have migrated from other parts of Pakistan, mainly the Sindh province.
A temple near Rawal dam in Islamabad
Recently, following a request from Ramesh Lal, a Hindu parliamentarian of the ruling Pakistan People’s Party, Prime Minister Raja Pervez issued a directive to the chairman of the Capital Development Authority to build a new temple for the Hindu community. That is no doubt a good gesture but the government must also urgently restore and preserve the old heritage of the city.
A detail of a temple in Sagri village, Rawalpindi
In Purana Qilla, Rawalpindi
Twin temples in Sagri village, Rawalpindi
In Bagh Sardaraan
A detail in Mohan mandir, Lunda Bazaar
Gurdwara Bagh Sardaraan
A temple near Rawaldam in Islamabad
In Chungi no. 4
In Sagri village, Rawalpindi
In Purana Qilla area
(Shiraz Hassan is a journalist based in Rawalpindi. He runs the blog Kahani Khazana which translates Hindi short stories from India into Urdu and Urdu short stories from Pakistan into Hindi. An earlier version of this post first appeared in The World Talks Here.)
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